As many of you already know, when you start on a path of modification sometimes it’s difficult to figure out when to stop modifying your car. You initially set up a goal in order to give yourself a sense of accomplishment. The funny thing is when you reach the top of the mountain; you end up saying to yourself “Can I do more?” Everyone knows the downward spiral from here. You immediately start thinking about the possibilities, which start to brainwash you. You convince yourself that your car is boring and you need a change. At this point this is where you end up in a “fork in the road” type of situation. Should I start a new project or shouldn’t I?

You immediately start to rationalize and think back to the pain and struggle you went through to get the car to its initial goal. Thinking to yourself, “That downtime wasn’t too bad”. Well now you know how we felt when we got a chance to try out Tanabe’s new set of Sustec Pro Seven suspension and the TEAS unit to go along with it. We wanted change and this setup could help us with that change.

Before we received the suspension I started to research the set up through the site and any other resource I could find. The list of features the suspension had to offer was very attractive. I immediately looked for the spring rates to see what I was going to be dealing with: 12kg in the front and 10kg in the rear. Pretty high rates but Tanabe claimed that this set up could be used for various driving environments (street and competition), which is very appealing. I wanted to find out for myself.

Installation
After a week of waiting, the UPS man came with the goods. After tearing the box, I could see four nicely packaged coilovers. I had to get these on the car! I immediately got the car on the lift and started the install.

Installation was very simple for the suspension and was completed in less then 2 hours (I love air tools!). The TEAS installation was also an easy install and took us about an hour or so to install. We did spend a little extra time making sure that everything was torque’d down correctly so we wouldn’t run into issues later. After the final inspection, the car came off the lift and was sent out for the initial test drive.

Product Build
We usually don’t talk too much about the build quality on some of the parts we review, so I figured I would take the opportunity to do so with the Teas and Sustec pro. The overall construction of the Sustec pro is pretty nice. The welds look strong and overall appearance looks very good. The hardware (camber plates, height adjustments, etc) were very well constructed as well.

With the Teas, the overall build is very basic and simple (small and light), which is what I prefer when it comes to electronic control boxes. The unit is small enough to fit it most places of the car, so mounting solutions shouldn’t be too difficult.

Initial Driving Impressions (Street Only and the car was not dialed in)
This initial drive wasn’t to test out the handling characteristics of the car, but more so to play with the TEAS. I initially set the damper setting to 1 (front and rear). Driving around with this setting was interesting. The setting was very soft and many of you who like a firm setup will not like this setting. I had to turn the dial up. The next damper setting I went to was 5 (front and rear). Finally we are getting somewhere! The ride was firmer then the previous setting. This setting was a good compromise for the street, firm but not so much that your head gets knocked around.

Finally I decided to see how far we could take this. I tried 10 (front and rear) and 16(front and rear). Wow what a difference. Definitely something I wouldn’t leave set especially for the street. My body was bouncing around like a rock in a can. I have to admit though it was pretty fun to drive the car in the stiff setting because it made the car feel very responsive and minimized body roll.

After an hour or so of parading around town, I decided to get the car dialed in to see how the setup truly feels.

Part 2 – Driving Impression (Street Only with the car dialed in)
Now that the car was dialed in, it was time to find out the car’s road handling characteristics and to really use the TEAS to its full potential (speed sensitive dampener controlling). The impressive thing about the TEAS active mode is you can also preprogram the unit to specifically set the dampener settings on the suspension based on a specific speed (as slow as 5mph).

TEAS Impression
The only other car I’ve ever been in to have some type of automatic dampener control has been the MB E55 AMG, but without the speed sensor option. I felt that this feature would be great on an Evo especially for owners who don’t want the full “Race” setup all the time and would prefer a way to adjust stiffness settings whenever they feel like.

The best place to test the TEAS was on the highway and some of the back twisty roads that most of you are familiar with. The first test was the highway. I set the TEAS to active mode and got on the on-ramp of the highway. The TEAS immediately started to tighten things up during my trip on the on-ramp. Once I merged onto the highway, I gave it a little gas and it continued to tighten things up. Very cool! The next test was driving the car on some twisty back roads.

As I did in the previous highway test, I set the TEAS in active mode and headed out on the back road. The TEAS did its job of stiffening the suspension to accommodate the driving, but there was a big difference between this test and the highway. Highway speeds are always consistent, whereas, other forms of driving where not. Tuning the TEAS was necessary in order to get the right dampener setting for this type driving.

After playing around for about an hour, I finally programmed a setup I liked. The car was crisp and in control.

In Conclusion
Overall I have to say that Tanabe’s Sustec Pro Seven and TEAS is a fairly good package all together. It can be overwhelming at first because of the many different features you can play around with, but once you figure it out it can be a blast to drive around in. As I said before, the one thing I liked about this set up is its ability to accommodate a wide range of driving environments. You also have an option to fine tune your settings and save them as preprogrammed options. Great for the daily commuter and weekend track monkey. All you need is a little patience to get the setup tuned right for your needs and some gas money. Stay tuned for part 2 when we take the car to the track.

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It’s been a while since our last install. We decided to change the pace a little and install something different for the project evo. Spring is around the corner and HPDE (high performance driving events) sessions were getting closer and closer. With this mind, we decided to look into a new Harness Bar for the project evo.

Each person has a different use for a harness bar. We decided to use ours as a camera mount so we can record our track sessions. There are a fair amount of harness bar manufactures to choose from. We were more interested in getting the one that had the best bang for the buck. It came down to Sparco’s and GSC’s harness bar. In the end we felt that GSC had the better product for less and decided to go with theirs.

The packaged arrived within a couple days after I placed the order. It was very well packaged and everything was pretty well organized. The paint job on the bar was nicely done as well as the supporting bars.

Install
Installation was pretty simple. Overall it took us about an hour to get everything installed and adjusted correctly. We decided to use Loctite for the new bolts going in. It may not be necessary but I like the feeling of having something a little extra, especially for something like a seatbelt.

Conclusion
After the install we were happy to see how the bar looked inside the car. We test fitted our camera mount and ran a test recording around town. The end result, the bar worked extremely well for our purpose. The picture was steady and we couldn’t be happier with the result. The harness bar was not only easy to install but it could be easily removed when we have extra passengers in the back. For an everyday driver, you couldn’t ask for anything better for a harness bar.

Gallery:

Special Thanks:

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A stock STI is a great package form the start. Starting the modification process with a stock car isn’t as easy as most will think. Any project needs an end goal in order to be successful. The main goal behind the 2006 I-Club Project STI is to have a capable street performer and to wreak havoc at weekend driving events (including time attack). With that in mind the best thing to do is to start simple.

Our first stop was with Buschur Racing. BR carries a strong reputation in the Evo & DSM world for building some of the fastest cars in the industry. Being new to the Subaru market, we wanted to give their products a try to see what kind of results we could get. Keeping things as simple as possible, we decided to start with Buschur’s 3-inch turbo back exhaust (with high flow cat), 2 ¼ inch up-pipe, and cold air intake. To keep things in perspective we wanted to run the car with the current setup on the dyno to start off with a base line. Then we installed each product (one at a time) and dyno’d the car to see what kind of power we could get out of each part.

Stock Dyno Graph:

Buschur Turbo Back Exhaust & Up-Pipe
The build quality is excellent (welds are perfect and bends are top notch) and most don’t compare to the overall build standards of the BR exhaust. One thing this exhaust is not is a polished dressed up visual perfection that you normally see under a car entered at a hot import night’s event. Making power is serious business and this exhaust doesn’t steer away from that concept. On paper the turbo back exhaust boasts a weight savings of about 39 pounds over the stock system, which is a great benefit when you have a double duty car that spends time on track. Installing the exhaust was fairly easy and didn’t take much time at all. We did have to trim back the rear black plastic diffuser to make sure we got enough clearance, which is the only issue we ran into. Other then that it was a perfect fit. Next we decided to add the up-pipe. In order to fit the entire test in one day we weren’t able to dyno the car with just exhaust separately from the up-pipe, so we had to install the up-pipe at the same time as the exhaust. Installation for the up-pipe took the most amount of time mainly because of its location. Once we got the exhaust and up-pipe on the car it was time to start it up and get it on the dyno.

Once the car was started, the exhaust tone belted out the meanest sound across the shop in a very good way. The BR exhaust accentuated the boxer motor sound.

Dyno Graph:

24 whp & 34 lb tq is a substantial gain for just a up-pipe and turbo back exhaust. So far so good and it was now time to get the intake installed.

Buschur Cold Air Intake
First impression of the intake build quality was very good. Since this was an item that could be seen it did help that the part looked more polished. Installation was very easy and took about 30-45 minutes to install. After the install we strapped the project STI back on the dyno to get some more numbers:

With the intake we were able to extract another 5whp but we did lose 5 lb tq at the wheels.

Conclusion
At the end of the day the results speak for themselves. A whopping 29whp gain over stock and 29 lb tq at the wheels without tuning. BR really has come up with the best combo to get the STI to produce substantial gains without having to dig too deep into your wallet. Getting the car on the road also proved even more impressive impressions. Throttle response was much more crisp and felt like the car was freer revving. The car picked up more lower end torque and had more juice up in the rpm range. With a custom tune we can expect higher numbers but for now this setup was much better then with what we started with.

Whenever the modding process is begun, always make sure to think through your plan before you get started. Simple may not sound exciting but with the power we gained, you can’t argue with the end result.

Video:

Gallery:

Special Thanks:

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Engine Torque Damper

With the current power levels on the Project Evo, something had to be done about the drive train lash we were experiencing. The Evo suffers from a good amount of engine movement due to the soft stock motor mounts. Some issues that results from the motor movement are increased stress on exhaust mounts (and motor mounts), problems shifting, and excessive wheel hop.

Upgrading the motor mounts was the only solution I could think of, until I was introduced to the Stiffy from Ingalls Engineering. The Stiffy seemed like the best solution if you didn’t want to go through the hassle of installing upgraded motor mounts or inserts. Plus it had the ability to adjust the stiffness level, which is a great feature especially if you drive your Evo daily.

The product arrived at my door within a weeks time. Included in the package was the following:

- Stiffy Engine Torque Damper
- Engine Mounting Bracket
- Chassis Mounting Bracket
- Hardware Kit (includes: two 12mm engine mount nuts, two 12mm washers, two bolts, two nylon locking washers, and two washers.)

Installation was simple and took about 30 minutes to complete. Once I finished the install I was out on the road testing it out.

Impressions

After the install I made sure to set the damper to the softest setting before heading out.

Softest/Lowest Setting

Initially I couldn’t feel a difference in the car’s behavior, until I started playing with the throttle. I tried to reproduce the drive train lash I experienced before to see if there was any improvement. I did notice a slight improvement. My shifting was also a little smother than before. Cabin vibrations were very mild, but keep in mind the project Evo has a lumpy idle due to the 272 cams so I’m pretty used to the car being shaky.

Medium/Middle Setting

This setting was a definite improvement from the last setting. Shifting improved and the lash experienced during the last run had reduced. This time around I was able to feel vibrations within the cabin. Again I’m not ultra sensitive to cabin noise or vibrations so this was tolerable for me on a daily basis.

Stiffest/Highest Setting

Finally I decided to go all the way and set the damper to the stiffest setting and head out for the final test run of the day. On this run I could definitely tell that the product was making a difference. Shifting was really smooth this time around. I tried to reproduce the lash again but this time it had greatly reduced from the first setting. Cabin vibrations were definitely noticeable and may be a pain to deal with on daily basis.

At the end of the day I have to say this is a good mod that was easy to install and easy to use. It’s a great alternative to motor mounts, especially if you drive your Evo on a daily basis. A little Dynamat around the strut tower could also help absorb any vibrations experienced, if any. I would also keep the Stiffy set anywhere between the softest to the medium setting for everyday use. I would recommend only using the highest setting on track days.

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(Article I wrote for Sport Compact Car)
Does Four Times The Price Mean Four Times Better?

writer: Ali Allage
photographer: Devin Lefevere

Not everyone can afford the 35 large required to buy a new road-going rally car from Mitsubishi or Subaru. But almost anyone can afford to buy a used Subaru Impreza GC8. And the best used GC8 has to be the 2.5 RS. It weighs over 430 pounds less than its modern day equivalents. It has all-wheel drive and its Japanese cousin came with a turbocharged engine that put out more than 276bhp.

The more numbers we plug in, the more curious we become. Available for around $7000-$8000 at the time of writing, we wondered what the $25,000 premium of a new car was really worth. We had to find out. Mitsubishi graciously supplied us with a brand spankin’ new Evo IX MR, but the challenge would be finding a clean Impreza 2.5 RS. We eventually found Pirouz Sichani from Dynamic Power Solutions in Maryland, who had a 2.5 RS that was pristine enough to eat off. He bought the car new in 1999 and has been wrenching on it ever since.

Sichani’s Impreza is no ordinary 2.5. With the same displacement as stock, the car uses an EJ257 swap with a custom Turbonetics T3/T4OB turbo kit. According to Sichani, the car is capable of about 320 wheel-hp. That’s a lot of power for a car weighing less than 2900 pounds. Often mistaken for a standard 2.5 RS, Sichani reports that many overly-anxious 350Z owners get a big surprise when they try to intimidate this car.

To even out the playing field a little, we’ve thrown in a lightly modified Evo VIII from www.evolutionm.net. It represents a good example of how a few careful modifications fit together to achieve a well balanced car; nothing is over the top. The guys at evolutionm.net claim this Evo dynos at 352 wheel-hp, making it the hardest hitter of the bunch by a reasonable margin.

Initially, we wanted to put the cars on an autocross course, but bad weather foiled that plan. No matter, all three cars are better geared for track duty than the tight coned corners of an autocross anyway. As it turns out, we get some track time at Carolina Motorsports Park in Kershaw, South Carolina, for a full day of testing. As an added bonus, the interim between cancelled autocross and eventual track day allows us to get a feel for the cars as daily drivers.

Impreza 2.5 RS

The giant front-mount intercooler sitting immediately above the aggressive Chargespeed front lip makes the intentions of this particular 2.5 RS perfectly clear. While the lip speaks volumes, it’s a pain in the ass to baby out of parking lots and over speedbumps. The version five STI wing with rear bumper spoiler pieces from the (extremely) limited edition 22B also help make the car look authentic-and predatory.

On the street, the spring rates of the Prodrive P1 suspension are low enough to soak up any bumps, but the Subaru still feels distinctly ‘modified car’. With upgraded front calipers and rotors from the much-vaunted 22B, the 2.5 has no trouble stopping. What we don’t like are the large donuts for tires (225/50 Kumho Ecsta MX) mounted on a stock set of 16-inch wheels. With a slightly thinner sidewall, turn-in could be markedly improved.

The steering isn’t as a precise as the two Evos. Granted, the Subaru is about seven years old, but the high level of power assistance makes the steering feel more Cadillac than performance car. The second issue is the clutch. Anything aftermarket will take some getting used to, but for some reason the clutch doesn’t disengage very easily. It’s difficult to get consistently smooth shifts, which can be frustrating on the daily drive. With some acclimatization, this issue might be resolved.

The 2.5 RS takes to the track like a kid to video games; unbelievable fun to pitch into the tighter sections of the course and use the turbo to blast out. With all the low end torque available, the car seems to build a greater amount of exit speed than the Evos. The power is there throughout the day and never backs off, netting the little Sube a 2.00:12 final time, despite the relatively dinky rubber.

We experience a fair amount of nose-dive under braking, which could be attributed to the same soft springs that are such a joy on the road. With each progressive lap, the brakes start to fade, finally requiring a quick cool-down in the pits. State-of-the-art technology from 1999 is seven years old in 2006. Brakes and suspension are the issues clouding the car, track-wise. Otherwise, it has a lot of potential and could easily be a great weekend track machine and workday wonder.

Stock EVO IX MR

The suspension and power makes the bone stock Evo IX easy to drive and well-mannered on the street. Driving around town, the upgraded Bilstein suspension of the MR does a good job of smoothing out bumps and dips. On power delivery, Mitsubishi claims the new IX has a slight torque increase within the lower rev zone. The butt dyno confirms this from as little as 2500rpm when compared to the Evo VIII. Once past 6500rpm, though, the power seems to flatten out.

Trackside, the car feels alive. The factory brakes, suspension, steering, and power delivery make for an incredibly capable package. The car is a blast. Flying through each corner, the IX is being stressed in every possible way as we push harder and harder, but it feels like nothing can release its stranglehold on the asphalt. It’s clear this Evo is a hassle-free ride, whether used as a daily driver or a track monster. It also turns in a very respectable 2.02:33 lap time on its stock Yokohama rubber.

Evolutionm.net EVO VIII

The suspension modifications and aggressive wheel/tire package on the evolutionm.net VIII stand in clear contrast to the untainted lines of the stock Evo IX. The VIII looks aggressive yet simple, with its unreasonably wide Nitto NT01 tires (275/35) mounted on SSIX 18×9-inch wheels. After driving around for a couple of days, it is clear that, while a relatively tame package, this car has sacrificed some of its daily driveability for ultimate speed.

With the combination of a lowered front anti-roll bar (spacers have been added to allow clearance for the Vishnu Performance downpipe) and lowered suspension, the VIII is extremely difficult to drive on uneven pavement. Even when using caution, the low-hanging metal bits too often produce nasty scraping noises that ring through the cockpit.

Not all is lost to modification, though. It has the best power delivery and manages to create more than a few buttcheek-clenching moments during takeoff on the street. The upgraded Ohlins coilover setup with Hyper Coil springs isn’t as harsh as expected compared to the Bilsteins of the IX. The shocks make short(ish) work of most pavement imperfections, even with a 650-pound spring rate in the rear and a 550-pound rate up front.

Stock Brembo calipers are paired with two-piece GiroDisk rotors and mated with a set of Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear. The setup results in powerful and consistent braking that exhibits no fade during heated mountain runs.

On track, the metamorphosis from street car to roller coaster ride takes place. We’re pinned to the seat during acceleration, hanging from the seatbelt during braking and cutting into side bolsters during cornering. This is an animal. The modified Mitsu squeezes out 1.56:47, a massive six seconds faster than the out-of-the-box Evo IX MR.

With the combination of moderate driveability on the street and demonic track performance, the Evo VIII impresses all who sit behind its aluminum wheel. Priced between the two other cars, it seems to offer more than either, without the need to change a thing. The 2.5 RS, by comparison, requires some alteration in the suspension and braking department to be a chart topper in such tough company. It would even benefit from a quicker steering rack, but then we’re missing the point of buying the budget car in the first place. The Evo IX MR is, well, an Evo IX MR. An awesome car, but just too expensive this time around.

Photo Gallery

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Technology is making everyday items better and better. Take this new guitar from Gibson:

This video was amazing just to watch. Where most people have problems playing with one guitar, this guy can play two at once!! :

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I attended the 2008 University of Maryland charity meet with Dynamic Power Solutions (DPS). The event had a large attendance list with a variety of cars, trucks, and motorcycles. Check out the photo gallery to see some of the cars that attended:

Photo Gallery

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Spending money on a set of new wheels, suspension, or body kit can help make you car look good, but there’s a cheaper and probably better solution to produce instant results that you can appreciate. Sure a little elbow grease is involved but there’s nothing better then working on your own car. What’s the solution? Detailing using Adam’s Essential Kit.

This may sound like a typical product commercial but this kit really does work. One thing that makes this kit really nice is the fact that they include a DVD instructional video along with a one page laminated guide to teach you how to use their products. I’m a total stranger when it comes to detailing and usually end up quitting right after the car is dried. This time it was all about commitment.

Before anything happens the first step was to watch the entire DVD that came with the kit. It wasn’t too long and it gave me a good foundation for how to get started. The single page instructions that came with kit was a good cheat sheet that was used frequently. Once the briefing session was over it was time to get started.

The car choice was our neglected AudiSportForums.com project car, a 2006 Audi A3. The car gets used and abused on a daily basis and very rarely gets to see enough love to get washed of it’s grime build up. The A3 is completely stock so the best way to make this car look better is to get it all cleaned up. The first step was to get started on the wheels, tires, and fender well. Using the All Purpose Cleaner and our 2 brushes, I got to work scrubbing.

The next step was to rinse the All Purpose Cleaner off and then rinse the rest of the car

Using a small amount of the Car Wash (applying it to the wash pad) and filling the bucket ¾ of the way with water produces a very sudsy solution. The wash pad included was easy to use and has a two-sided system that allows for one side to be used to wash most of the car and the other side is used to scrub out the stubborn dirt. After giving the car a good scrub, it was time to rinse all the soap off.

Once the rinse cycle was done, the car immediately went into the garage to start its next process. Applying the Clay bar to the car is recommended after every oil change. Having never done it before, it was probably a good idea to do it this time around. Using the Detail Spray and Clay Bar, I began claying the car by applying a small amount of the Detail Spray as a lubricant for the Clay Bar. Having never done something like this before it was great having the cheat sheet nearby to make sure the process was done correctly.

With the Clay Bar process done, the next step was to apply the TRV. The TRV really provided a great matte finish to the rubber pieces on the car and the tires. A glossy shine isn’t something too appealing to me and this stuff works pretty nicely. After the TRV process came the Swirl and Haze Remover mixed with Polish.

One thing that was nice about this step was the ability to mix two steps into one. Adam’s offers the detailer the ability to mix the Swirl Remover and mix it with the Polish in order to save time. Basically apply some Polish (generous amount) and apply a 1/3 of that amount with Swirl Remover. Keep in mind this is a judgment call because if the finish of your car has a ton of swirls then splitting this step and applying only the Swirl Remover would solve the issue.

With the Swirl Remover and Polish removed, the car immediately started taking on a different look all together. The paint looked deeper and more full. After taking a break, I wanted to finish the car up with the last and final step, applying the buttery wax.

Being the last step, I wanted to take the time to apply and remove the wax to make sure the car would look its best. Spending a few extra minutes to make sure every part of the car is perfect really made the difference. Words can only go so far, so instead here are some more pics:

Conclusion
Being detailing challenged, I really found the Adam’s Essential Kit to be a great packaged product simply because it provided everything needed to complete the job. The instructional DVD along with the cheat sheet was a great addition for someone clueless about detailing a car. This package isn’t the cheapest out there but it does offer almost everything you need to get the job done.

Two-Month Follow Recap
This is a first but I figured if you are going to put all the effort into detailing your car, it would be nice to know how long the car will remain clean. So far after two months our test car looks like this:

Pretty good especially for a car that sits outside and NOT in a garage. This kit is well worth it and with results like these, you can’t go wrong.

Special Thanks

Photo Gallery

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